The Blue de Gênes Spring Summer ’17 collection circles around the history of ancient Genoa in Italy. Menswear brand Blue de Gênes is a denim label taking it’s inspiration from the origin of jeans: the history of jeans that started in Genoa more than 400 years ago. At that time, the harbour workers in Genoa used a robust fabric called ‘Geanes fustian’, made of Arab cotton, for working clothes and sailcloth. The material was dyed blue with indigo, very strong and thus well suited for work pants for these hardworking dockers and sailors. This fabric was exported to other countries and eventually known as the Blue from Genoa, or in French ‘Bleu de Gênes’ since Genoa at that time belonged to France. The English adaptation of the expression then became ‘Blue Jeans’.

Blue de Gênes jeans are produced in Italy, and just as Blue de Gênes is a family run business, the suppliers are small family run factories. The quality of these rough jeans is never being compromised. All styles have a strong and unique identity and a design that will last for several years. Claiming that it is indigo that is ‘flowing in their veins’, they promise to continue the legacy of Genoa. They do so by always seeking inspiration in the history of Genoa and the people who lived there.

In the Blue de Gênes SS17 collection there is a series classical waistcoats and jackets, which are inspired by old 1700th century poor mans outfit. No plastic buttons are used in Blue de Gênes. They make buttons like they did in the old days. From Corozo Nut and from Buffalo Horn.

Also for SS17 Blue de Gênes developed some high-quality waistcoats made of fine Italian fabrics. The waistcoats are inspired by the craftsman who wore them in ancient Genoa.

San giorgio jeep gillet

Campo dalia gillet

Campo pin gillet

San giorgio beach gillet

Porto doubio gillet

Have you ever wondered why the lowest button on a waistcoat is always unfastened? It’s a bit of a mystery, but here are four explanations. You can choose for yourself which one is the most credible.

  • The future Edward VII was Prince of Wales and he became so fat that he couldn’t fasten the lowest button on his waistcoat so court followed suit to make him feel better about his body image.
  • There was a time when young dandies would wear two waistcoats at the same time so they left the top waistcoat’s bottom button undone so that you could see the one underneath.
  • It’s because of the comfort while sitting in the saddle, otherwise the waistcoat would rise up the chest while riding.
  • The affectation of the members of Pop, Pop is the oldest Society in Eton. A feature of the Pop was to leave the bottom button of the waistcoat unfastened. Later in life, members kept the tradition of unbuttoning this bottom button alive, and it didn’t take too long for Savile Row tailors and manufacturers adopt this special habit.

Explore the Blue de Gênes collection here:

Written by Wouter Munnichs
I'm the founder of Long John. Next to running this daily magazine, I'm working as a freelance denim specialist for the industry. Titled as 'Denim Influencer 2020' by Rivet 50. Celebrated my 10th anniversary with Long John in 2021.